Before New York, there was a small bar by the water.

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Chef Chen started cooking in coastal Guangdong, China, where he ran a neighborhood bar serving late-night stir-fries and cold beer to dockworkers and friends. He brought that same spirit — honest food, loud laughter, no shortcuts — to New York.

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Over the next 30 years, he worked the line at Tao Downtown, Philippe, Café China, and Birds of a Feather. Twilight Lounge is his first solo kitchen — built with family, fire, and the kind of flavor that stays with you.